Kotroni: How to Spend a Month in the South Pindus Mountains

Buried in central Greece, far from the azure waters of the Mediterranean or the iconic white domes of the Cyclades, lie some quiet mountains with their own kind of magic. We happened upon Kotroni quite by chance; after not being allowed to enter Turkey, our search criteria for the next month's accommodation was simply "mountains" and "affordable price" anywhere in the Balkans. I think I should let fate do our travel planning more often…