• Hiking,  Undiscovered Evia

    Filla to Castle Likarios: Easy day Hike

    About Filla (Fylla, Phylla) Village Just a ten-minute drive south of Chalkida, the village of Filla (Φύλλα) is notable for the ruin of Likarios Castle—where someone has memorably spray-painted “Όχι” (“No”) in thick white letters across its stones. On the far side of the dry Lilas Potamos riverbed, you’ll also spot the twin towers of Mytika, like something out of Tolkein. We’d driven past the village previously, spotting the castle and wondered what it was like. Today, we decided to find out. Parking in the village, as in most of Greece, is pretty easy. Finding a spot in the shade though is not so simple! We set off at 11am—early…

  • Greece,  Nomad Life

    Kotroni: How to Spend a Month in the South Pindus Mountains

    Buried in central Greece, far from the azure waters of the Mediterranean or the iconic white domes of the Cyclades, lie some quiet mountains with their own kind of magic. We happened upon Kotroni quite by chance; after not being allowed to enter Turkey, our search criteria for the next month's accommodation was simply "mountains" and "affordable price" anywhere in the Balkans. I think I should let fate do our travel planning more often…

  • Bulgaria,  Recent

    The Hidden Charms of Kardzhali

    The last stop off on our Bulgarian tour is the small city of Kardzhali. A city which, at first glance, may not appear especially aesthetically pleasing but has hidden charms for those who look. Close to the borders of both Greece (just 1.5 hours from the Mediterranean) and Turkey, it makes a great last resting point.