Filla to Castle Likarios: Easy day Hike
About Filla (Fylla, Phylla) Village
Just a ten-minute drive south of Chalkida, the village of Filla (Φύλλα) is notable for the ruin of Likarios Castle—where someone has memorably spray-painted “Όχι” (“No”) in thick white letters across its stones. On the far side of the dry Lilas Potamos riverbed, you’ll also spot the twin towers of Mytika, like something out of Tolkein.
We’d driven past the village previously, spotting the castle and wondered what it was like. Today, we decided to find out.
Parking in the village, as in most of Greece, is pretty easy. Finding a spot in the shade though is not so simple! We set off at 11am—early enough to avoid the real heat, but late enough that the sun was already strong. The hike is fully exposed, so we came armed with sun protection: a baby carrier and a UPF 50 hiking umbrella. Midday is when the umbrella works best—the sun is directly overhead so you don’t have to think about the angle!
Hiking from Filla Village to the Castle
The route to the castle follows a gently ascending paved road, almost all the way. There is no shade but the road was very quiet and no one else was doing the walk (far too late/early for Greeks probably!). You are quickly rewarded for your efforts with stunning views of the Mytika towers, olive groves, craggy outcrops, and the glittering sea in the distance.
Past the last houses, the route is very peaceful and clean. The June hillsides are carpeted with purple flowering thyme bushes (that put mine very much to shame). The air is filled with the sound of bees and the flutter of butterflies. And there are no people!
The paved road ends in a small parking area. After that, there is a short rocky path to the castle. From there, a rocky path leads up to the castle. Judging by the signs in Greek, you’re probably not technically supposed to enter—something about danger and crumbling walls—but we ventured up anyway (my mama senses were definitely activated the whole time in case there was an earthquake).
Despite a nicely made road and some attempts at preserving the structure of the castle, there’s no other information once you get there. However, here is some information I retrieved from the internet.
Suggested Informational Signpost for Filla Castle
Sitting ~160 m above the valley, Filla Castle (aka Licario’s Castle) dates from the 13th century and originally belonged to Frankish lords. Around 1279–80, it was seized by Licario — the Italian-born knight in Byzantine service — who used it as his regional base in a turbulent era of shifting allegiances.1
Architecturally, its triangular layout (50×60 m), thick rampart walls, a vaulted cistern, and a surviving two‑storey Great Hall make it one of the best‑preserved Latin‑era forts in Greece.1 It eventually fell to Ottoman forces in 1470, along with the rest of Evia, marking the end of its active military use.
We had a brief rest and enjoyed the views through the remaining castle windows. After topping ourselves up on some nuts and water, and Heinz on milk, we set off back down again.
For the return journey, we had considered making a loop around the hill for a longer 6 km hike – but we were hungry and it was hot – so we sacked it off and had a wander through the village instead.
A perfect walk ends with a delicious meal and we were not let down by Vouka (Βογκα) in Agia Nikolaus.
Overall, this is a straightforward, rewarding hike to do which is possible with a baby in a sling. We had to stop a few times to rest as our bundle of joy is a hefty 12 kg so it was a good workout for Steffen’s legs. With no shade along the way, decent sun protection is essential—or just time your walk for a cooler part of the day. The castle itself whilst interesting is a bit disappointing as there’s no information or signs.
Quick Facts about the Hike to Castle Likarios
- Start/End Point: Filla village, Evia 34100
- Distance: ~3.5 km out-and-back
- Duration: 1–1.5 hours
- Difficulty: Easy/moderate (some incline, exposed)
- Best Time: Morning or late afternoon
- Highlights: Castle ruins, panoramic views, wild thyme
- Where to eat: Vouka, Agios Nikolaos
AI Disclaimer
AI was used during the writing process for this post.
What is AI?
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The better your prompt, the better the response generated.
