Evia: Greece’s Second-Biggest Island You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

Despite being Greece’s second largest island, Evia isn’t widely known outside the country. Most people haven’t even heard of it, let alone find it on a map. Separated from the mainland by just 40m of water, it’s barely an island at all.

This is the first in a series of blog posts in entitled “Undiscovered Evia” where I write travel content and tips for visiting the island. We live here year round, so have taken a deep dive into Evia’s best things to do, places to eat and everything else in between.

So Firstly, Where the Heck is Evia?

Evia, formerly called Euboa (which is still pronounced like “Evia” in Greek language), is an island in the Aegean sea. Although it isn’t formally part of any specific island chain, it is sometimes linked to the Northern Sporades which include Skopelos, Skiathos (where Mama Mia was filmed!) and Skyros.

We landed here thanks to a serendipitous rental listing (read more about how we ended up in Evia) and immediately fell in love. The island has an authentic feel that you don’t get everywhere. It’s not overrun with international tourists, though it does get mobbed by Athenians in summer—attracted by the gorgeous beaches and cosy mountain villages.

The main city on Evia is Halkida (also spelled Chalkida or Chalcis in English). It connects to the mainland via two bridges – and is only about 60 minutes from Athens! North Evia refers to the region north of Halkida, while South Evia lies to the south. The north tends to be greener, although large areas have been badly affected by wildfires in recent years. Another way to divide the island is by coastline: the Aegean (eastern) side, facing open sea, and the western side, from which the mainland is visible from many points.

Get to Know Evia’s Wild Side.

One of the main things that sealed the deal for us was the sheer variety of landscapes packed into one island. Evia has luscious green forests and rugged mountains, dramatic canyons and waterfalls, olive groves and even thermal springs. Naturally, it also offers an array of stunning beaches – sandy, pebbly, wild or calm – many of them blissfully quiet outside peak season. If you love a morning hike in the forest followed by an afternoon swim on a beach, then Evia is for you.

A Few of our Evia Highlights

Culinary Delights of Evia: Some of Our Favourite Local Foods

Evia produces an abundance of food, much of it grown or made right here on the island. Some of the local specialities we’ve come to love include:

Figs from Kymi

Kymi should be as synonymous with figs as Kalamata is with olives. The dried figs—and all the figgy spin-offs like jams, syrups and sweet preserves—are a genuine delight. I was never that into figs before we moved here, but now… let’s just say we get through rather a lot of them.

Evia Sheep Yoghurt

Sold in satisfyingly rustic clay pots, this tangy, creamy yoghurt is a staple for us now. Incredibly, it’s often cheaper than the mass-produced cow’s milk stuff. It might be an acquired taste, but it’s one we’ve definitely acquired.

Mushrooms from Steni

A visit to the Steni Mushroom City (Manitaropolio) is a must. Grown indoors on Evia’s highest mountain, their mushrooms are fresh, delicious, and come in a surprising variety. The gift shop / mushroom museum sells everything from dried and pickled mushrooms to mushroom powders, liqueurs—and even chocolate (which might be more novelty than delicacy, but hey, the packaging is pretty :)).

Local Pasta (“Makaronia”)

Sorry Italy, but Greece deserves more credit for its pasta. There are loads of native pasta dishes, and the local varieties are fantastic. Our go-to is a little shop in Amarynthos that makes pasta using goat’s milk—a totally unique flavour which we are a big fan of.

Tempeh from Peace by Peas

Not traditional, but worth a mention: Greece’s only tempeh producer is based right in our village! Peace by Peas make small-batch tempeh using Greek-grown organic chickpeas—and it’s honestly the best tempeh we’ve had anywhere.

Getting Here, Getting Around

Evia is connected to the mainland by two bridges at Halkida, the island’s central hub. From Athens, it takes about an hour to reach Halkida by car. From there, heading north or south along the island can take another couple of hours, depending on your destination.

There are also several ferry routes between the mainland and Evia. So far, we’ve only used the shortest one—Eretria to Oropos—which takes about 30 minutes and costs just €14 for two people with a car. From Amarynthos, the total journey time to Athens is roughly the same whether you take the ferry or drive via the bridge.

Public transport options exist as well. There are direct buses from Athens to Halkida and further afield, as well as a train from central Athens to Halkida which takes around 1 hour 20 minutes.

I’ll be writing a more detailed post soon on the various travel options to and from Evia.

While public transport does exist (and we know plenty of people living here without a car), some of the most beautiful spots can only be reached with your own vehicle—or better yet, a 4×4. Remote mountain roads and wild beaches are often only accessible if you’ve got decent clearance and are confident driving on unpaved roads.

When to Visit?

The tourist season in Evia is surprisingly short—some hotels only open halfway through May and close again by the end of September. A few bars and restaurants shut outside this period too, but we’ve found the majority stay open year-round. If you’re after lots of accommodation options, it’s best to come during the main season. Just be warned: July and August are hot, busy, and full of Athenians escaping the city.

The cooler months are ideal for outdoor adventures like hiking. The waterfalls are more likely to be flowing, and you can head out for the day without worrying about overheating or getting scorched by the sun. Weekends—especially around holidays—are still lively, but during the week, things are wonderfully quiet.

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AI was used during the writing process for this post.

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